Holmen and Refshaleøen: Copenhagen’s Most Underrated Neighborhoods 

The longer I live in Copenhagen, the more my appreciation for this city grows stronger. One thing I really like about the Danish capital is how well it uses its former industrial spaces, and the neighborhoods of Holmen and Refshaleøen are prime examples. 

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I’ve started spending *a lot* of my time in this part of town, and in my opinion, Holmen and Refshaleøen are two of Copenhagen’s most underrated districts. I strongly recommend spending a day here when you visit, and in this guide, I’ll share my top recommendations for what to do. 

The History of Holmen and Refshaleøen 

Holmen and Refshaleøen are actually artificially created islands. Holmen was originally used as a military base for over 300 years. While still partially used for the military, a large chunk of this neighborhood is used by other businesses and the general public. You’ll find a number of small old-Danish-style houses here.

Refshaleøen, meanwhile, used to be the home of Burmeister & Wain. B&W used the area as a shipyard, building it in the 19th century. 

Nowadays, however, Refshaleøen has been transformed into a creative hub. It’s home to Denmark’s biggest street food market and has also become a center for renewable energy. The area is also home to several modern apartments. 

Given its strong maritime history, it’s also unsurprising that you’ll find many houseboats in Holmen and Refshaløen. 

Things to Do in Holmen and Refshaleøen 

1. Grab Some Food at Lille Bakery

It took me four years of living in Copenhagen to finally visit Lille Bakery, but it was well worth the wait. Lille Bakery is one of the best bakeries I’ve visited anywhere in Scandinavia, and its interior is also really nice. 

Lille Bakery has several sweet and savory pastries, and you can also enjoy numerous sandwiches and juices. One simple Danish staple is to have a bun with cheese and butter, and the ones at Lille Bakery are particularly good. 

You will often have to stand in a queue outside, but I promise that it’s worth the wait. Indoor and outdoor seating are available. Lille Bakery is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays but is open for the rest of the week. 

Good to Know 

You’re not allowed to take photos inside Lille Bakery without permission, so be sure to keep this in mind. 

Address: Refshalevej 213B, 1432 København K

Map:

2. Saunas and Swimming

I’ve very much been on a “wellness bro” arc recently, and I’ve especially wanted to increase my cold exposure while also finding a sauna to visit regularly. Holmen and Refshaløen are two of the best places in Copenhagen to enjoy both activities. 

While many are membership-based, you can still sample what makes Copenhagen such a great city for wellness (living a healthy lifestyle here is very easy, as I outlined in my pros and cons of living in Denmark). La Banchina is one option; it doubles up as a sauna and vegetarian/seafood restaurant. You can book a sauna spot online.

CopenHot is another popular sauna worth trying when you visit. You can enjoy an excellent view toward Copenhagen from the panoramic sauna; the price is 1,300 DKK altogether. CopenHot also has hot tubs and various other facilities, and you can book online in advance. 

If you just want to swim, you’ll find numerous spots to do so around Holmen and Refshaløen. Many of these are completely free, and you’ll see locals swimming year-round (yes, even in the deepest depths of January). These neighborhoods especially come alive in the summer. 

3. Street Food at Reffen 

If you ask Copenhageners where they would spend their ideal summer day, I’m pretty sure that the majority would say Reffen. This street food market’s annual spring opening is eagerly awaited by everyone in the city, and the outdoor party continues until the beginning of autumn. 

Reffen has street food pop-ups from all over the world. You’ll also find numerous bars and a couple of places to get ice cream. 

You’ll find some outdoor seating, but this fills up quickly in the summer. Reffen turns into an ice skating rink during the winter, with a handful of street food spots still open during this time. If you’re looking for hygge in Copenhagen, start here. 

4. Copenhagen Contemporary 

Copenhagen Contemporary used to be on Papirøen but has been in Refshaløen since 2018. The art center is known for its quirky exhibitions, and it’s one of many great things to do in Copenhagen on a rainy day. 

Many of the exhibitions at Copenhagen Contemporary are modern art-related, and a lot of them are also somewhat abstract. The museum is open from Wednesday through Sunday; tickets cost 140 DKK for adults, 25 DKK for children (under 18), and 95 DKK for students. Groups can get a discount. 

Address: Refshalevej 173A, 1432 København K

Website: https://copenhagencontemporary.org/en/

Map:

5. Visit Operaparken and the Copenhagen Opera House 

Operaparken opened in 2023 and is one of Copenhagen’s newest—and coolest—public spaces. I was quite relieved when it was finally completed because much of the area had been under construction since I moved here in 2020. It’s a lovely place to stroll around, and I also enjoy just sitting along the waterfront on a sunny day. 

The park has great views of the Royal Danish Playhouse and other parts of Copenhagen, and you’ll also find a nice café. 

The Copenhagen Opera House opened in 2005; it keeps in line with the Nordic specialty of building excellent concert halls and opera houses. Besides hosting shows year-round, the Opera House also has a café inside. You can view events in the calendar. 

Map:

6. People-Watch From Hart Bakery 

Hart has expanded throughout Copenhagen in recent years, but one of its coziest bakeries is close to the Opera House. Located in an old wooden building, you’ll find plenty of sweet treats and sandwiches. The inside is also pretty spacious, making it a great place to linger on a rainy day. 

The bakery also has outdoor seating if you would prefer to people-watch. You’ll also find a Hart Bakery closer to Reffen. 

Addresses: 

Galionsvej 41, 1437 København K

Refshalevej 159A, 1432 København K

7. Skiing and Climbing at CopenHill 

We don’t have many (read: any) mountains in Denmark, and most people either go north or to the likes of Austria to ski. However, you can *technically* ski without even leaving Copenhagen. 

CopenHill is a large artificial ski slope on the top of Amager Bakke, a power plant that was named Building of the Year at the 2021 World Architecture Festival. It’s one of many great examples of architectural photography in Copenhagen; you can book your skiing in advance online on the CopenHill website. 

You can also participate in climbing at CopenHill; it’s the highest climbing wall in Europe. Other activities, such as sledding, are also possible. You’ll get a great view toward Sweden from the top. While you have to pay for some activities, it’s free to just hike to the top. 

Address: Vindmøllevej 6, 2300 København S

Map:

How to Get to Holmen and Refshaleøen

Holmen and Refshaleøen can feel somewhat detached from the city center, but they’re very easy to reach by bike. You can also walk to Holmen from Nyhavn in around 15 minutes. The 2A bus also goes directly to Refshaleøen. 

In my opinion, the most scenic way to reach Holmen is via the harbor bus. The yellow ferry departs from Nordre Toldbod, close to Kastellet. Departure times can be quite infrequent, especially on weekends, so I recommend downloading the Rejseplanen app (iOS and Android).