A Local’s Top Tips for Visiting Copenhagen in the Winter

When I told my mother I wanted to move to Copenhagen, she wisely told me to visit in the winter before deciding. I did, I loved it, and I ultimately moved here three years after that conversation. Although winter in Copenhagen might seem like the worst possible time to visit, the truth is that the Danish capital is great to visit year-round, and coming here in the off-season has several advantages. 

To be honest, I actually prefer Copenhagen in the winter than in the summer (though I am, admittedly, always looking forward to Spring by the end of February). Wandering around the deserted streets and breathing the fresh Nordic air is one of life’s simple pleasures, and the dark mornings feel very peaceful to me. And who can argue with Christmas markets, gløgg (mulled wine), and ice skating? 

If you’re thinking about planning a winter trip to Copenhagen, I’ve got you covered. Based on living here for multiple winters since moving in 2020, and visiting multiple times during this time of year before moving, here is my complete guide to enjoying a winter trip in the Danish capital.

When Is Winter in Copenhagen?

Winter in Copenhagen arrives pretty quickly, and I would say that we’re in full-on winter mode by the second week in November. But since the clocks go back at the end of October and the sun doesn’t rise after 17:00 at that point, we can say that winter in Copenhagen roughly lasts from the start of November to mid-late March. 

While the daylight hours are shorter by the start of November, it’s not until around the middle of the month that temperatures start to properly resemble winter. By December, there are fewer than seven-and-a-half hours of daylight—which reduces to just over seven hours by the shortest day of the year (normally around the 21st). 

March often still has frigid temperatures, but spring arrives in Copenhagen much earlier than most of the Nordic region. 

Winter Weather in Copenhagen 

If you’re looking for a winter getaway with lots of snow, I’m afraid to tell you that Copenhagen probably *isn’t* that destination. You’re much better off going to Helsinki or Stockholm around February for snow. It has snowed every winter since I moved to Copenhagen, but most of the time, it melts pretty quickly. 

More often than not, Copenhagen winters are *very* grey. I remember a two-week spell in November 2020, for example, where it was literally overcast for two weeks straight. It’ll also probably rain or sleet quite a lot on your visit. 

Above all else, though, winter in Copenhagen is often quite windy. Storms can occur, but we usually only have a few of these per year. 

Winter Temperatures in Copenhagen

It’s a common misconception that Copenhagen gets very cold in the winter. But most of the time, the temperature is 3-5ºC (37ºF to 41ºF) during the day and between 1ºC and -3ºC (33.8ºF / 26.6ºF) at night. Of course, whether you define this as “cold” is subjective; it won’t be for someone from the north of Finland, but it probably will be if you’re from Tenerife. I’m from the UK, so it’s basically what I am used to.

That said, it can occasionally get very cold here. For example, it was -8ºC (17.6ºF) on one morning in December 2023; I was walking to the gym and had to wear two pairs of socks 😆. We had a pretty cold spell around Christmas that year, and some of the canals at Nyhavn and Christianshavn froze over. 

In February 2021, we also had a cold period where the nighttime temperatures were around -9ºC for roughly a week, and the daytime temperatures didn’t go above freezing. Much of the inner harbour froze over, and pretty much all of Nyhavn did. This normally only happens every three years or so, and to photograph all of this was amazing. 

Reasons to Visit Copenhagen in the Winter 

Right, so we’ve established that Copenhagen is grey, rainy, and dark for most of the winter. Which begs the question—why on earth would you visit? 

As I’ve mentioned before, the best time to visit Copenhagen is whenever you have the time. Winter in the Danish capital has several benefits, and I’ve listed my top reasons for visiting below. 

1. You Basically Have the City to Yourself

In my opinion, the biggest reason to visit Copenhagen in the winter (more specifically, January and February) is that you’ll practically have the whole city to yourself. Copenhageners spend a lot of time indoors during these months, and tourists are thinner on the ground compared to summer. 

There is nothing I love more than picking up my camera and going for a morning walk or bike ride in the winter; you sometimes forget that you’re living in a capital city. It means that you’ll often have fewer crowds to deal with when photographing Nyhavn and other places frequented by tourists. 

A lot of Copenhagen’s tourist attractions are still open during the winter, such as the Round Tower and a lot of boat tours. You won’t have to wait in lengthy queues to buy tickets compared to the summer, and these places will also be less crowded; in my opinion, that’s a big win. 

2. Fastelavnsboller 

Despite preferring winter to summer, I’ve never really liked January and always welcome the start of February. Since moving to Copenhagen, the final few weeks of January have become even better because I discovered the fabled fastelavnsbolle. 

Fastelavn is very similar to Halloween, and it’s a popular time for kids to go out and get candies. Every bakery in Copenhagen, as well as some of the big store chains, has its own variation of fastelavnsboller—which is a pastry with a cream filling. 

My top three recommendations for fastelavnsboller are Hart Bakery, ARD Bakery, and Lagkagehuset. You shouldn’t have a problem finding fastelavnsboller anywhere in Copenhagen, though. 

If you’re visiting Copenhagen in early February, I’d also recommend visiting Malmö and trying the Swedish semla bun. There are plenty of other fun things to do in Sweden’s third-biggest city, too, whether you’re visiting on a day trip or want to stay overnight.

3. Christmas Cheer 

By far the best time to visit Copenhagen in the winter is just before Christmas. The Christmas markets normally pop up in November, and the city is draped in decorative lights from the beginning of that month. It’s a cheery time of the year and one of the peak seasons for hygge. 

My favourite Copenhagen Christmas market is at Kongens Nytorv, but you’ll find plenty of others dotted around the inner city. Nyhavn has one, and you’ll find another at Højbro Plads (close to Strøget, the main shopping street). There’s also a smaller one, known as HC Andersens Julemarked, at Nytorv. 

4. Good Hotel Rates 

Of course, this is Copenhagen—you’re going to spend a lot on accommodation regardless. But if you visit in January, February, or early November, you’ll often get better hotel deals than at other times of the year. 

It is worth noting that hotels can be quite pricey around Christmas, so it’s a good idea to do your research beforehand and figure out your budget. I have also written a guide on where to stay in Copenhagen, where I outline the pros and cons of staying in each district, which should help you make a better decision based on your own needs. 

4. Great Photography Opportunities 

While I think that autumn is the best time for photography, there are plenty of photography spots in Copenhagen worth capturing year-round. The best-case scenario is that you visit Copenhagen when it’s covered in snow, or the waterways have frozen over, but even if you don’t, there’s plenty to capture. 

The soft lighting is by far my favourite thing about winter in Copenhagen. On those rare days when the sun appears behind the thick grey cloud, the entire day feels like one long golden hour. Because of this, you can capture great photos at pretty much any time; summer can be a bit more difficult because the lighting is harsh in the middle of the day. 

Because the sunset is so early, you can also get a great view of the city from above as the sun is going down. My top recommendation is the Round Tower (side note: I’ve written a full guide on visiting the Round Tower, including how to buy tickets). 

Because Copenhagen often feels deserted during the winter, it’s also a great time for moody-style photography. 

Related Reading: 

• Copenhagen Architectural Photography: A Complete Guide

Things to Do in Copenhagen During the Winter

In my opinion, ignoring a winter trip to Copenhagen means that you’re missing out on a lot of fun experiences—even if there are plenty of fun things to do in the Danish capital year-round. Here are some of my top recommendations for the off-season. 

1. Christmas Markets (November and December)

Copenhagen’s Christmas markets normally spring up in November, but I have to say that it seems like they get earlier every year 😄. I love it when they’re up, though, because it makes the city feel like a true fairytale setting. 

The Christmas markets in Copenhagen are quite similar to what you’ll find elsewhere in Europe. If you’re looking for some Danish Christmas treats, I can recommend getting æbleskiver; they’re basically dough balls sprinkled in powdered sugar and normally served with jam. 

You’ll also find food from other countries to satisfy your appetite. I’d also suggest sampling some gløgg, which is basically mulled wine; you’ll find this throughout Europe as well. 

2. Ice Skating 

Occasionally, The Lakes in Copenhagen will freeze over to the point that you can skate on them. However, that has only happened once in the four years that I’ve lived in Copenhagen so far. The good news, however, is that you’ll find a handful of artificial ice skating rinks throughout the city. 

The main ice skating rink is at Broens Street Food, which is the street food market between Nyhavn and Christianshavn. I really enjoy hanging out here year-round; you’ll find plenty of food and drink stalls if you don’t want to join your friends and family on the rink (or if you’d simply like to refuel later). 

You’ll also find a much smaller ice skating rink close to Frederiksberg Have. You can rent skates at both. 

3. Café-Hopping 

Most of Copenhagen’s cafés have outdoor seating that’s great for people-watching in the summer, but you should also definitely check out their interiors. Café-hopping is a great way to ensure that your hands don’t get too cold while wandering around, and it also means that you’ll get to try Denmark’s many great sweet treats. 

If you’re unsure where to start, I can recommend each of these cafés (I’ve picked these specific locations because of their cosy interiors): 

• Meyers, Gammel Kongevej 
• Andersen & Maillard, Nordhavn 
• BUKA, Østerbro

You’ll find plenty of others, and my suggestion is to just hop into any that look nice enough to you as you’re wandering around. 

4. Museum-Hopping

Copenhagen has several excellent museums waiting to welcome you if it gets too windy or rainy (which is very likely). Some of my favourite museums are below; if you’re planning to visit multiple museums and attractions, consider buying the Copenhagen Card (which also gives you free unlimited public transport). As a side note, you can check out my full Copenhagen Card review if you’re thinking of purchasing it.

Below are some of my top suggestions.

The National Museum of Denmark 

The National Museum of Denmark (Nationalmuseet) was the first that I ever visited in Copenhagen, and it was a great introduction to this country that I soon fell in love with. You’ll find several temporary and permanent exhibitions that showcase the history of Denmark and its people. 

At the museum, you’ll also find a restaurant if you get hungry. Note that the museum is closed on Mondays from November to March. 

Address: Ny Vestergade 10, 1471 København K

Website: https://en.natmus.dk/ 

Designmuseum Danmark 

For such a small country, Denmark has an impressive design legacy. You’ve probably heard of the likes of HAY and Royal Copenhagen, and if you haven’t, you’ll inevitably see some of their products as you wander around the capital. The Design Museum is where you can learn all about Danish design and its many wonders. 

When I visited in October 2022, I found that each of the exhibitions were interactive enough to even interest people who care little about design. The museum has a permanent exhibition showcasing 20th-century Danish design, and there’s even a place where you can create your own designs. 

In addition to the permanent exhibitions, you’ll find plenty of temporary ones. There’s also a guided tour of the museum every Sunday at 4pm. 

Address: Bredgade 68, 1260 København K 

Website: https://designmuseum.dk/en/

The Danish Architecture Center

The Danish Architecture Center (DAC) is inside BLOX, one of Copenhagen’s best examples of modern design. You’ll find numerous architecture-related exhibitions and a 40-metre slide (you can even use it as an adult, as I have tested for the sake of this article 😛). 

The DAC also has a large aerial Copenhagen map as a permanent exhibition, which is ideal if you’ve just arrived and want to get your bearings. 

After exploring the DAC, you’ll find a rooftop café with a pleasant view of the inner harbour. You can buy tickets in advance or at the reception when you arrive.

Address: Bryghusgade 10, 1473 København K

Website: https://dac.dk/en/ 

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek (also known as Glyptoteket) is close to Copenhagen Central Station, and it gives me Metropolitan Museum in New York City vibes every time I walk or cycle past. I was lucky enough to visit for Culture Night in 2022; besides its interesting exhibitions, the museum has a beautiful interior. I’ve since been back a few times, and it’s always a great experience.

You’ll find exhibitions from across the world, and these cover sculptures plus other forms of art. Glyptoteket is free on the last Wednesday of the month; otherwise, tickets cost 125 DKK for adults. 

Address: Dantes Plads 7, 1556 København V

Website: https://www.glyptoteket.com/ 

5. Sample Copenhagen’s Restaurants

Compared to when I first visited Copenhagen in 2016, the city’s food scene has evolved significantly. Winter is the best time to try many of the Danish capital’s restaurants, and I suggest visiting each of the following. 

SURT

SURT is a fantastic Italian restaurant in Carlsberg Byen, and I had the pleasure of visiting for the first time in 2021. You’ll find several sourdough pizzas on the menu; while more expensive than many pizza places in Copenhagen, the quality is also very high. 

At SURT, you’ll also find a comprehensive list of wines. Beer, soft drinks, and cocktails are also available. I suggest booking a table in advance. 

Address: Bag Elefanterne 2, 1799 København V

Website: https://surtcph.dk/ 

Ramen to Biiru 

Ramen to Biiru has a couple of joints across Copenhagen, including Østerbro (my personal favourite), Nørrebro, and close to Carlsberg Byen. You’ll find a good selection of ramen dishes with varying spice levels, and you can also get side dishes like kimchi. 

At Ramen to Biiru, you have a good selection of drinks available—including various Mikeller beers. Booking in advance isn’t possible. 

Website: https://ramentobiiru.dk/ 

Mahalle

Mahalle is a Lebanese restaurant that offers generous portions, and you’ll find a handful of locations across Copenhagen. You can choose between tapas-style dishes and platters; there are several meat-based and vegetarian/vegan options to choose from. 

In addition to its Copenhagen restaurants, you’ll also find a Mahalle restaurant in Malmö. 

Website (in Danish): https://mahalle.nu/ 

6. Copenhagen Light Festival (February) 

Copenhagen Light Festival lasts most of February and is my favourite winter event in the city. The light exhibitions change every year and are dotted throughout the city. The Light Festival is completely free to attend, and I recommend spending an evening wandering around and exploring those that interest you. 

You’ll find a map on the event’s official website, and you can book guided tours online. 

Website: https://copenhagenlightfestival.org/en/ 

7. Shopping

If you’ve had your eyes on all those fancy Scandinavian brands on Instagram (this is also where I shamelessly plug my own Instagram account for you to follow), winter is a great time to go shopping in Copenhagen. ILLUM is basically the Danish equivalent of Harrod’s, and Magasin is where you’ll find more everyday brands. 

You’ll also find various design shops throughout Copenhagen, in addition to several clothing brands’ flagship stores. The main shopping street is Strøget (which, admittedly, I try to avoid at all costs because it’s so busy). 

If you’re a non-EU resident, you can get a refund on Denmark’s hefty sales tax. You need to spend at least 300.01 DKK (yes, very specific, I know); ask for a form at the counter and hand it in at Copenhagen Airport before you leave. You can read more information about VAT refunds here.  

Where to Experience Winter Hygge in Copenhagen

Hygge is something that’s difficult to describe, but you will feel it wherever you go in Copenhagen (and the rest of Denmark, for that matter). Some of the best places to experience hygge in the Danish capital, based on my own experiences, are below.  

1. Hart Bakery, Vesterbro 

Hart Bakery has expanded across the city in recent years, and my favourite one for hygge is the one on Istedgade. There’s another in Vesterbro if you go to Kødbyen, but I haven’t yet visited. 

The Istedgade bakery is quite small, but if you manage to grab a seat, it’s a great place to spend a bit of time. If you don’t, any Hart throughout Copenhagen will also be pretty good. For example, I really like the one in Holmen.

Address (Istedgade): Istedgade 61, 1650 København V

2. Original Coffee, Nordhavn 

You’ll find plenty of Original Coffee shops in Copenhagen, but the best one for winter hygge is in Nordhavn. You can get a handful of pastries and sandwiches, but I normally just go here to grab a coffee and chat with friends. 

Another Original Coffe that I can recommend is at ILLUM, which also has a great view of Strøget and Christiansborg Palace. The one on Bredgade is also pleasant. 

Address (Nordhavn): Göteborg Plads 6, 2150 København Ø

Website (in Danish): https://originalcoffee.dk/ 

3. Café Dyrehaven, Sønder Boulevard

Café Dyrehaven is one of Copenhagen’s most underrated spots for brunch, and I particularly recommend its eggs benedict. You’ll also find some great cinnamon buns here. 

The place also turns into a laid-back bar. There’s a pretty decent amount of seating inside, so you should hopefully have no problem finding a spot. However, you can book a table online in advance. 

Address: Sønder Boulevard 72, 1720 København V

Website (in Danish): https://www.dyrehavenkbh.dk/ 

4. BEAT Café, Enghave Plads

BEAT Café is not far from Café Dyrehaven, and it’s also on the same square as BRØD—a fantastic bakery that I haven’t included in this list but is still worth visiting. As for BEAT, it’s a cosy spot where you can get sandwiches, tapas-style dishes, and cakes. 

BEAT also has several beers on tap, and you can look through several vinyl records next door. Note that this place gets very busy and is quite small, so you might have to wait for a seat during busy periods. 

Address: Enghave Plads 13, 1670 København V

Website: https://www.beatcafe.dk/ 

5. Apotek 57, Indre By 

My girlfriend and I waited outside Apotek 57 for a very long time on a chilly November morning, and it was very much worthwhile. Apotek 57 has excellent focaccia bread, and its pastries are also excellent. 

The seating plan here is more communal, and I prefer it that way. There’s a small design shop that you can browse once you’ve finished eating, too.  

Address: Fredericiagade 57, 1310 København K

Website: https://framacph.com/blogs/stores/apotek-57 

Social Media: Instagram

6. Meyers, Gammel Kongevej 

Every Meyers bakery is fantastic, to be honest, but I’ve specifically chosen the one on Gammel Kongevej because I think it’s the most “hyggeligt”. If you try nothing else, make sure you get the cinnamon buns. 

Around Christmas, you can also get several themed treats and drinks—so I would recommend visiting in December if I would give you any time to go. While busy, you should be able to get a seat here without too many problems. 

Address: Gl. Kongevej 107, 1850 Frederiksberg

Website (in Danish): https://meyers.dk/bageri/meyers-bagerier/ 

7. Andersen & Maillard, Nordhavn 

Andersen & Maillard is another place with a couple of bakeries throughout Copenhagen, but I really like its Nordhavn establishment in particular. Bright and airy, it’s the perfect place to spend a few hours on a chilly winter afternoon. 

I particularly enjoyed the croissants here, so if you get nothing else, make it that.

Address: Antwerpengade 10, 2150 København Ø

Website: https://www.andersenmaillard.dk/pages/locations 

Social Media: Instagram

Winter Daylight Hours in Copenhagen

Copenhagen is quite dark in the winter, but not on the same level as the other Nordic capitals. However, since the sun rarely shines through the clouds, it can sometimes feel even darker than the sunrise and sunset times suggest; I honestly use these as a guideline rather than a rule when it’s cloudy. 

On the shortest day of the year, normally around 21st December, we get around seven hours of daylight. All of January and the start of February are also quite dark, though it’s substantially lighter by the end of February. In March, it’s clear that spring is on the horizon. 

Here’s a rundown of the daylight hours at different points throughout the winter (and as a side note, I’ve also written a guide on how to survive winter in Denmark):

Date 📆	Sunrise 🌄	Sunset 🌇
November 1	07:16	16:29
November 15	07:45	16:02
December 1	08:15	15:42
December 15	08:33	15:36
December 21	08:36	15:38
December 31	08:38	15:47
January 15	08:28	16:09
January 31	08:04	16:42
February 15	07:33	17:14
February 28	07:02	17:42
March 15	06:24	18:13
March 31	06:42	19:45

(Source: timeanddate)

What to Wear for a Winter Trip to Copenhagen

You probably won’t need some massive Arctic jacket (unless you visit on those occasions when it’s -5ºC or below). However, you still need to prepare appropriately for a winter trip to Copenhagen if you want to enjoy your trip. 

I’d recommend a good pair of boots for your winter trip to the Danish capital. I have owned a pair of Doctor Martens for the last five years, and they’ve been an absolute game-changer for walking and cycling. They’re durable enough to last through the rain and sleet, and they’re also well-built, so I can keep my feet warm. I’ll just tell you from personal experience: White trainers aren’t a good idea. I tried this in the winter of 2023/2024, and my shoes were wrecked by the end of it. Nonetheless, if you see me zipping around on my bike this winter with them again, then you’ll know that I haven’t learned my lesson 🙂. 

Once you’ve lived in Scandinavia for a while, you’ll realise that there’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes. And when visiting Copenhagen in the winter, you should do as the locals do (i.e. dressing in layers). Here’s how I typically approach this: 

• 1 x undershirt 
• 1 x wool layer (preferably a stylish turtleneck by a brand with lots of ø’s in its name)
• 1 x outer layer (i.e. a durable jacket) 

I also recommend getting a decent pair of woolly socks. This is partially to keep your feet warm, but it’ll also help if your feet get wet. Other things to bring with you are:

• A good pair of gloves (I normally layer up with one pair of running gloves and then my photography gloves on top) 
• A woolly hat 
• A good scarf 

Your hotel will usually be able to provide you with an umbrella. But to be honest, you need a proper umbrella that can deal with the wind; most of the time, a random cheap one won’t cut it.

Tips for Visiting Copenhagen in Winter

Here are some more of my quick tips for enjoying your winter visit to Copenhagen:

1. Wind Chill

Copenhagen is windy most of the time in the winter, meaning that it often feels 3-5ºC colder than it actually is. Layering up can help prevent the downsides of this.

2. Vitamin D is a Good Idea

I notice a difference within a few days of not taking vitamin D in the winter, which is why I make it a priority whether I’m in Copenhagen or visiting somewhere else in Northern Europe at this time. You’ll find vitamin D supplements in the majority of Netto and Føtex grocery stores. 

3. Check to See if Attractions Are Open 

Some attractions, such as the Round Tower, are open year-round. However, Tivoli is only open for small periods throughout the year. Similarly, the spiral church tower at Vor Frelsers Kirke closes for much of the winter and is also shut during wet and windy weather (which is what the weather is like for most of the winter, anyway). 

4. Day Trips Are Possible, but You Should Pick Wisely

Winter isn’t the best time to take day trips from Copenhagen due to limited daylight hours and the fact that many nearby areas are summer destinations. Nonetheless, Malmö is a fantastic year-round destination (and I can say the same for Lund). Helsingør is also pleasant, but it’s incredibly windy. 

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