Winter sun in Nyhavn, Copenhagen

A Self-Guided Hygge Tour of Copenhagen 

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If you only pick up one Danish word on your trip here (apart from “hej”), it’ll almost certainly be “hygge”. Hygge (pronounced hue-guh) became a global phenomenon in the late 2010s, and while it no longer gets the same international attention that it once did, the concept is very much part of everyday Danish life. 

Nyhavn in Copenhagen, Denmark, on a June evening

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The word, which has no direct English translation, means something between cozy and content. Its importance within Danish society is instantly recognizable as soon as you arrive in Copenhagen and experience the Danish capital’s warm and welcoming atmosphere. 

Friends sitting on the waterfont at Nyhavn in Copenhagen

Based on my experiences living in Copenhagen for over four years (and visiting seven times before moving here), these are my favorite places for hygge in the Danish capital. I’ve covered outdoor areas, restaurants, bakeries, cafés, and more. 

I’ve listed many places here, so you should spread this hygge tour of Copenhagen over a few days. 

Christianshavns Kanal

Christianshavn is one of Copenhagen’s smallest neighborhoods, and partly because of this, it’s also—in my opinion—the most “hyggeligt”. My favorite part of Christianshavn is its scenic canal, which was inspired by the iconic Canals of Amsterdam. 

The canal is lined with several boathouses and maintains a bohemian vibe today. Christian IV, a former Danish king, originally wanted Christianshavn to be independent from Copenhagen. 

A boat tour going through a canal in Christianshavn, Copenhagen
A photo of a foggy canal in Christianshavn on an autumn morning
Photo of Christianshavn, Copenhagen, on a winter's day

Along the canal shores, you’ll find several beautiful old houses that are so synonymous with Copenhagen. Vor Frelsers Kirke, which offers the best view over the city, is also nearby. 

Christianshavns Kanal is particularly scenic if you visit Copenhagen in the autumn, but it’s worth seeing year-round. I love exploring this part of the city early in the morning, too, when you’ll pretty much have the canal to yourself. Besides exploring its shores, I also recommend booking a boat tour and exploring Copenhagen’s waterways from another angle.

Broens Street Food

Broens Street Food is in the middle of Christianshavn and Nyhavn. You’ll find numerous food stalls from various Copenhagen restaurants, including Gasoline Grill, Hooked, and Phago. 

During the winter months, you can also go ice skating here. It’s a wonderful place to stop by for lunch or dinner, regardless of the season. 

Nyhavn

We can’t talk about hygge (or Copenhagen in general) without mentioning Nyhavn. Sure, this is the most touristy part of the city. But let’s be honest—it’s also one of the nicest. Even after walking past Nyhavn thousands of times, I’m still captivated by its beauty and frequently stop by to take photos.

A snowy day in Nyhavn, Copenhagen

Long gone are the days when Nyhavn was the seediest part of town. Now, it’s a hotspot for selfie sticks instead. Besides wandering along the banks of this canal, don’t forget to check out the courtyard in which you’ll find Kunsthal Charlottenborg.

If you’re into photography, you can get a great picture of Nyhavn’s buildings within the gateway arch. Oh, and you should also bookmark my comprehensive Nyhavn photography guide for more tips. 

A moody day in Nyhavn, Copenhagen
A boat in Nyhavn, Copenhagen, close-up

Nyhavn is particularly wonderful on a summer evening when the shores are lined with locals and tourists alike. However, for maximum hygge, the best time to visit is in November or December when all of the Christmas lights are up. Why not grab some gløgg while you’re at it?

A boat passing through Nyhavn, Copenhagen

Slotsholmen

Slotsholmen is one of the oldest parts of Copenhagen, and to this day, it’s still one of the city’s coziest quarters (especially during the winter). I recommend wandering around the stables here; if you’re lucky, you’ll also see some horses. 

Photo of the gardens at Christiansborg Palace
Friends sitting on the shores of Slotsholmen in Copenhagen during the summer
A photo of a bridge in Copenhagen

Consider also visiting Christiansborg Palace, which is basically Denmark’s answer to the Houses of Parliament. You can join a tour of the Royal Reception Rooms, which is free if you get the Copenhagen Card. Otherwise, admission costs 195 DKK for adults and 175 DKK for students (children under 18 go for free). 

You can also visit the tower at Christiansborg Palace for another view over Copenhagen. Entry is free, but you will have to wait in a queue during busy periods. Afterward, you can wander along Marmorbroen and back into the city center. 

A photo of Copenhagen looking toward Tivoli from Christiansborg Palace
A view of the Copenhagen skyline from Christiansborg Palace, looking toward the Latin Church

Tivoli

A strong contender for the king of hygge is Tivoli Gardens, an amusement park close to the hearts of many Danes. It opened in 1843 and is still one of the best things to do in Copenhagen to this day. 

Tivoli opens four times throughout the year, closing for a few weeks between each season. You’ll find plenty of rides here, and I also recommend having some food here. There’s a nearby food hall with plenty of great places to eat, such as Gasoline Grill and Hallernes Smørrebrød.

Tivoli Gardens in Winter

The latter gives you a great opportunity to sample smørrebrød (an open-top sandwich), one of Denmark’s most famous dishes. I promise it’s more exciting than it sounds. 

You can buy entry tickets for Tivoli with or without access to rides.

Kongens Have 

Kongens Have is a strong contender for Copenhagen’s most beautiful park. Autumn is my favorite time to visit, when the pathways are lined with orange trees and brown jackets aplenty mean that you’ll never run out of photography opportunities. 

Kongens Have is also really nice in the spring and summer. As soon as the sun appears on a semi-permanent basis, Copenhageners take to the grass to enjoy picnics, play games, and kick a football around. It’s a lovely place to spend a warm evening and a great example of how welcoming Denmark’s public spaces are. 

People sitting at Kongens Have, Copenhagen, at sunset
Photo showing two friends walking next to each other in Kongens Have during the autumn
A photo of Rosenborg Castle in the early morning

Regardless of when you visit, though, Kongens Have is worth a stroll around. Inside, you’ll also find Rosenborg Castle—a strong contender for Copenhagen’s most picturesque building. 

Apotek 57

You’re spoiled for choice when looking for brunch-style food with nice interiors in Copenhagen, and Apotek 57 is one of my favorites. Its tables are laid out in a communal style, and the food is also really good. I’m a huge fan of the focaccia bread in particular 🤤. 

You’ll probably have to wait in a line outside, but I think it’s worthwhile. Once you’ve finished eating, you can also browse the design shop inside. 

Food from Apotek 57 in Copenhagen

The Lakes and Original Coffee

The Lakes are a great spot for an early-morning stroll, even more so if you have a warm cup of coffee in hand. Original Coffee makes a pretty decent morning brew, so I recommend going to the store near The Lakes and grabbing something to drink. 

You can walk around all three lakes in a few hours; the combined route around them is just under 6.5 kilometers. Bring your camera, too, as The Lakes are one of the best photography spots in Copenhagen

A woman photographing at The Lakes in Copenhagen
A photo of some swans on The Lakes in Copenhagen
Two friends walking next to each other by the Lakes in Copenhagen on a summer evening

BRUS

I very rarely drink these days, but BRUS is normally where I go to do so. You’ll find plenty of craft beers from To Øl, and as someone who *really* likes dark beers, this place is superb. However, you can also get wheat beer, sour options, and non-alcoholic beers if you’d prefer. 

Even without drinking, BRUS is worth visiting for its excellent food. The burgers and pork sandwiches are both really good, and the serrano peppers with cheese are also very “drool emoji”. 

BRUS’s interior is stereotypically Scandinavian; bright, airy, and with the perfect sound levels. 

Jægersborggade

Since you’ll be in Nørrebro when you go to BRUS, it’s worth exploring some of this neighborhood’s other coziest quarters. Jægersborggade is one of Nørrebro’s coolest streets, with a handful of independent stores. You’ll also find a Meyers bakery if you’re still feeling peckish, and GRØD—which specializes in (surprisingly) good porridge. 

Jægersborggade is also close to pretty Stefansgade—another of my favorite streets in Copenhagen. 

A cyclist on Jægersborggade, Copenhagen

Kødbyen

Kødbyen, also known as the Meatpacking District, is perhaps Copenhagen’s best example of hygge. This former industrial quarter has been transformed with several innovative restaurants and bars, including Warpigs—which is my personal favorite. 

Warpigs food and beer

On Friday and Saturday evenings, you’ll see people hanging around outside and chatting with friends. It’s also a nice place to go for lunch. Besides Warpigs, I can also recommend Ismageriet if you want the best ice cream in Copenhagen. 

Reffen

I’ve been spending a lot of time in Holmen and Refshaleøen recently, and it’s quickly becoming one of my go-to places to enjoy Copenhagen off the beaten path. During the summer, Reffen is a popular hangout spot for locals. 

Reffen is another fantastic place for street food. During the winter, you can now also ice skate here. Reffen has a sizable skatepark, too, and it’s close to the Copenhagen Contemporary museum. 

evening scene in reffen, copenhagen
Photo of a couple at Reffen in Copenhagen on a summer evening

While you’re here, I recommend exploring the neighborhoods of Holmen and Refshaleøen.

Arnold Busck

I absolutely love reading, and I’m also a huge fan of coffee table-sized books. Unsurprisingly, I’ll happily spend 2-3 hours inside a bookstore on the weekend and quickly lose track of time. Arnold Busck, close to the Round Tower, is my favorite bookstore in Copenhagen. 

Arnold Busck has a huge selection of Danish and English titles from all genres. You’ll find some of the most common self-help books here, along with several books about Copenhagen and Denmark that you can take home as souvenirs. The store is spread out across multiple floors.

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