Umeå, Sweden: A Complete Travel Guide (+ 36-Hour Itinerary)

I spent two weeks traveling through Sweden in the summer of 2024, and Umeå surprised me more than any other place we visited. This pleasant city on the northwestern coast has an optimistic feel, friendly locals, and a surprisingly good culinary scene. You’re also near some of Sweden’s most beautiful nature; we stopped here overnight before making the two-hour drive to the High Coast.

Located just 400 kilometers below the Arctic Circle, Umeå also has a distinctly “northern” feel that’s hard to describe unless you visit these latitudes. While we went as part of a broader trip, I would happily visit again as a standalone weekend trip. Regardless of whether that’s your intention or you plan to travel more extensively through Sweden, I strongly recommend adding this city to your itinerary.

In this comprehensive Umeå travel guide, I’ll give you all the information you need to book a memorable visit. Keep reading to find out what to do and where to stay, with a 36-hour itinerary to make planning easier. 

How to Get to Umeå 

Umeå is well-connected to the rest of Sweden, and it’s also possible to reach the city internationally via Finland. Here’s a rundown of the main ways you can get to Umeå. 

The Fun Way: Take the Ferry From Finland 

We took the ferry from Vaasa to Umeå, and in my opinion, this is the most enjoyable way to travel here. The journey takes around three-and-a-half hours, and you’ll pass the beautiful Kvarken Archipelago on your visit. Fun fact about this area: The land is rising at a rate of 8-10 millimeters per year, and if this continues, it’s anticipated that Finland and Sweden will be connected by land within 3,000 years. Unsurprisingly, it’s listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The ferry from Vaasa to Umeå was pretty smooth when we traveled; we paid €45 per ticket. When you arrive at the port in Umeå, a shuttle bus will take you to the town center. 

You can order a buffet on board the ferry, and other food options—like sandwiches—are also available. Buy tickets in advance on the Wasaline website. 

Arriving in Umeå by Train 

If you’re already in Sweden, taking the train would be my top recommendation for visiting Umeå. You can fly (as I’ll discuss later), but I suggest the train for some key reasons: 

• The train will take you right into the city center; no need to worry about transport to and from the airport. 
• Train travel in Sweden is a joy. Most trains are clean and punctual, and you have the bonus of admiring the country’s beautiful landscapes. 
• It’s more environmentally friendly (and fun) to travel by train. 

Trains between Stockholm (which is also well worth visiting) and Umeå run daily; the journey takes anywhere from 6-10 hours. I recommend paying the extra for a faster direct train.

Given its close proximity to Lapland, you can also make the four-hour train journey from Luleå if you’ve been exploring Sweden’s deep north. It’s also possible to travel to Umeå from areas within the High Coast, such as Kramfors and Härnösand, along with other cities in Sweden like Sundsvall (which, by the way, I also think is worth a visit).

I highly recommend booking tickets in advance. You can book directly via the SJ website and compare prices/times on Omio. 

Flying to Umeå

If you feel like it’s absolutely necessary to fly from Stockholm to Umeå, you can do so in just over an hour. Direct flights also operate from Östersund.

Further afield, you’ll find flights to Umeå from Burgas (Bulgaria) and a handful of Greek holiday destinations. It’s also possible to fly between Umeå and the Canary Islands. 

The airport is around five kilometers from Umeå, and you can take the 80 bus (read more about tickets, etc. here); the journey will take around 20 minutes. Taxis, while expensive, should get you there in roughly 10 minutes. 

Driving to Umeå

We rented the car for our Sweden road trip from Umeå, so we can attest that it’s quite easy to drive from and to the city. However, I must warn you that driving in the center of Umeå itself was not an enjoyable experience. 

Umeå is around three hours from Luleå by car; you can take the E4. 

If you’ve been exploring the High Coast (which you absolutely should, by the way), Umeå is just over an hour from Örnsköldsvik—the main city in that region. 

Things to Do in Umeå 

Despite being a relatively small city by global standards, Umeå is Northern Sweden’s main cultural hub. We found plenty to keep us entertained for a few days; I’d love to come back and explore Umeå and its surroundings at a more relaxed pace. 

Here are my top recommendations for top things to do in Umeå. 

1. Visit Västerbottens Museum 

In my opinion, Västerbottens Museum is by far the best free thing to do in Umeå. This fantastic museum is completely free and comprehensively showcases the history of Västerbotten—the county that Umeå is located in. 

At the museum, we learned about the city’s 20th-century history with plenty of intriguing photos and artifacts. We also learned about what Västerbotten was like even earlier than that. One of the most interesting things you’ll see here is the Kalvträskskidan skis; these are 4,000+ years old and some of the oldest on the planet. 

Outside, you’ll find a comprehensive open-air museum. We love visiting these kinds of places and seeing how people used to live, and the area is beautifully laid out. We also got to try porridge like it was prepared in the olden days. 

It’s worth noting that many descriptions will be in Swedish. The museum is also around 30 minutes from the city center on foot, but you can get there by bus. 

Address: Helena Elisabeths väg 3, 903 42 Umeå

Website: https://vbm.se/ 

Social Media: Facebook | Instagram

2. Stroll Along Strandpromenaden 

If you visit Umeå in the summer, the main stretch along the riverfront is delightful. The view of the houses on the other side of the river is fantastic, and you’ll find numerous places to eat and drink. 

The waterfront also has several places to sit and enjoy your surroundings. You may also spot some Arctic terns; they’ll either be gracefully looking for food along the river or dive-bombing you because you unknowingly stepped too close to their nest 😆. 

3. Check Out the Skin 4 Sculpture 

The Skin 4 sculpture is the massive clothes peg you’ve probably seen on Google and Instagram when researching your trip, and it’s one of the best photography spots in Umeå. It looked quite cool in the summer, but I’d love to see it when the surrounding areas are covered in snow during the winter. 

4. Explore Umeå’s Architecture

I love photographing architecture, and naturally, I spend hours researching each new destination I visit to see what there is. Umeå has quite a few modern buildings, but you’ll also find those cute Swedish houses you always dreamed of seeing. 

I thought that the Bildmuseet building was pretty cool; it’s on the way to the Skin 4 sculpture as you walk out of town. I also love the U&Me Hotel’s architecture, and inside this building, you’ll also find a library and bakery. 

5. Photograph Umeå From Above

It’s always a good idea to look for viewpoints when you travel to a new place, and the best place to capture Umeå from above is at the top of the Clarion Hotel. Here, you’ll get a fantastic view of the river running through the city; if you can, be sure to go here at sunset. 

You can access the terrace via Brasserie NÒR. 

Food and Drink in Umeå

Another thing that surprised me about Umeå is how many food and drink options there are for a relatively small place. I will, of course, go back and explore more, adding to this guide when I do—but for now, here are my top recommendations for eating and drinking in the city. 

1. Sjöbris

We had dinner on our first evening at Sjöbris, a pleasant boat restaurant with a broad range of dishes. It was incredibly popular with Swedes in particular, and I was a huge fan of the pizzas that we had. 

Outdoor seating is also available, but we visited in the summer, and the seagulls were—unsurprisingly—relentless. So, we decided to stay indoors and admire the chaos instead. 

Address: Kajen 10, 903 26 Umeå

Website (in Swedish): https://www.sjobris.nu/

Social Media: Facebook | Instagram

2. Brasserie NÒR

We didn’t eat here, but it was a nice place to stop for a drink in the evening. It was pretty laid back, and the view around sunset was great. You’ll find NÒR in Clarion Umeå; it’s on the top floor. 

Advance table bookings are possible. 

Address: Storgatan 36, 903 26 Umeå

Website: https://umea.restaurant-nor.com/en 

3. Guilty Pleasure Café 

We went to this place in Sundsvall, but our original plan was to visit Guilty Pleasure in Umeå. It doesn’t really matter where you go to this restaurant, but I recommend doing so regardless. This dog-friendly restaurant and café has a range of ever-changing dishes, plus some that are permanently on the menu. 

Booking a table in advance isn’t possible. 

Address: Skolgatan 62, 903 29 Umeå

Website: https://www.guiltypleasure.se/umea/ 

Social Media: Instagram | Facebook

Where to Stay in Umeå 

Umeå has an excellent range of hotels; we stayed at Clarion Hotel Umeå, and I would happily return. The biggest advantage was that we had blackout blinds; when we visited in the summer, it didn’t really get dark. I had struggled to sleep for much of my two weeks in Finland beforehand because of light peeking through the windows, so this was a welcome change. (Seriously: If you’re traveling anywhere in the Nordics during the summer, look for blackout curtains above everything else.) 

The breakfast was also very good at Clarion Hotel Umeå, with a solid selection of hot and cold dishes. The mushrooms, in particular, were very “🤤”. 

One thing worth noting is that there are two Clarion hotels in Umeå: Clarion Hotel Umeå and Clarion Collection Uman. We stayed at the first of these. I made the mistake of trying to check into the wrong hotel later on this trip when in Uppsala and had to then walk back across town to the other hotel, so I don’t want the same to happen to you  🤝. 

Address: Storgatan 36, 903 26 Umeå

If you want to browse other hotel options in Umeå, check out your options via the map below and book when you’re ready.

A 36-Hour Umeå Itinerary 

While I’ve given you all my top recommendations for a trip to Umeå, you might find it easier to organize everything if it’s structured within an itinerary. So, based on my own actual 36-trip to Northern Sweden’s biggest city, I’ve put together this simple 36-hour Umeå itinerary. 

Day I

After taking the ferry from Vaasa, we arrived in Umeå in the early afternoon. You can take the train or plane whenever is more convenient for you, though, and you should also remember that the sun sets before 2 pm in the winter. 

Nonetheless, I’d first suggest checking into your hotel. Afterward, heading out for a walk to get your bearings is also wise. We started with a walk along the waterfront before heading for dinner at Sjöbris. To be honest, I would happily go here for drinks alone without the food—it’s worth spending a few hours and taking it easy. 

After dinner, have a bit more of a wander around Umeå; there isn’t much to do on the other side of the river, but the view towards the city center is quite nice when you’re crossing the bridge. You can then head back over to Clarion Umeå and have a quiet drink at Brasserie NÒR while enjoying the best view in town. 

Day II

Your second day will be much busier than the first, so I hope you got a good night’s rest 🙂. Start with breakfast at your hotel before heading out; if you’re staying in self-catered accommodation, heading to a grocery store the night before is a good idea. 

The first thing my girlfriend and I did on our second day in Umeå was head to Västerbottens Museum. We did this via Bildmuseet and the Skin 4 statue; the leisurely walk was lovely, even if it rained a few times along the way. We spent a few hours at the museum and in the surrounding outdoor area, which was enough to see everything we wanted. 

After then strolling back into the city center, we stopped for some pastries at Kulturbageriet. If you’re feeling hungry, you can always grab some lunch at Gulity Pleasure Café; it’s open from 11 am. 

Depending on how much time you have before your onward journey, I’d recommend a gentle stroll around Umeå’s city center before heading onwards to your next destination. 

A Useful Note on Spending Money… 💳

You’ll use the Swedish Krona (SEK) in Umeå, and like the rest of Sweden, cash payments are practically non-existent. Visa and Mastercard are accepted pretty much everywhere. I’d recommend using a mobile-only bank, such as Revolut, Monzo, or Wise, to minimize the fees that a traditional bank would charge.

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