A Stormy Afternoon in Tjørnuvík, Faroe Islands

The Faroe Islands are blessed with countless charming villages, each of which feels like stepping back in time but with a smartphone and a 5G signal. Tjørnuvík is one of the most popular, and it’s well worth a visit. Approaching the village via a winding mountainside road is memorable in and of itself, and you’ll find a charming place to explore when you arrive.

Having originally visited Tjørnuvík for my first trip to the Faroe Islands one year earlier, I had the opportunity to revisit the village on a second adventure in the archipelago. I really enjoyed my trip here before, so I was excited to return. After a second visit, Tjørnuvík solidified itself as one of my favorite villages on the Faroe Islands. 

While the weather didn’t play fair, it was still an enjoyable afternoon. Based on my experiences in Tjørnuvík, I’ve put together this piece to help you have a great time as well. 

Getting to Tjørnuvík

Tjørnuvík is at the northernmost tip of Streymoy. It’s just over 50 kilometers from the capital Tórshavn, and driving here takes roughly 55 minutes. Take Route 10 north, and keep driving up Streymoy. You’ll then finish on Route 594. 

While Google Maps may tell you to go via the Eysturoy Tunnel, DO NOT take this route. It’s longer, for starters, and you’ll also have to pay the tunnel fee. I’d only suggest doing this if you’re going to visit Eysturoy on the same day anyway; we drove from Eiði to Tjørnuvík after doing the Eiðiskollur hike, for example.

As you approach Tjørnuvík, you’ll have to drive along a single-lane mountain road. While there are guardrails, this can be quite nerve-wracking if you aren’t used to driving on such roads before. 

There are numerous pull-over spots on the way to the village where you can let vehicles pass. Pull over if the spot is on your right-hand side.  

Besides driving to Tjørnuvík yourself, it’s also possible to visit the village as part of a guided tour. For example, I did this 7-hour Faroe Islands tour on my first trip and really enjoyed it.

A bus also runs from Oyrarbakki to Tjørnuvík.  

Enjoying a Fantastic View Over Tjørnuvík

As soon as we parked the car in Tjørnuvík, I had one photo in mind. Behind the village, the public hiking route to nearby Saksun begins. While we did not do the entire hike, I wanted to head up the hill for a full view of Tjørnuvík and its surroundings. 

After a short walk above the village, we were greeted with a great view of the village nestled between the mountains. You can also see the North Atlantic Ocean here and all the way over to the famous Risin & Kellingin Sea Stacks (more about those later). While I’d like to do the full hike to Saksun one day, this was a fantastic photo opportunity. 

As we walked up to the viewpoint, we also got a nice view of the mountains behind Tjørnuvík. Though harder to photograph from this angle because of the lighting, it was scenic nonetheless. 

Walking Along the Waterfront

Though many people visit Tjørnuvík for the beach and to hike to Saksun, these aren’t the only things you can do here. The walk along the small waterfront path next to the village wasn’t something I initially added to my itinerary, but I’m really glad we did it. 

While the afternoon had been sunny up to this point, the weather quickly changed. I saw the dark clouds roll in and grinned because I realized we were about to be delivered a Faroese weather masterclass. Within a few minutes, the hail thrashed down. 

As we were walking along the path, this allowed for some excellent photo opportunities. The village looked really cool as it was being barraged by the Gods, and we were also treated to a rainbow. Even in more boring weather, I still recommend wandering along this path. 

The Best View of the Risin & Kellingin Sea Stacks

The black sand beach at Tjørnuvík is one of the village’s main attractions, and to be honest, I enjoyed being here more than Reynisfjara in Iceland. From the beach, you get a superb view of the famous Risin & Kellinign Sea Stacks. Since we didn’t spot them while hiking Eiðiskollur earlier in the day, it was nice to see them from this angle. 

From the beach, it was also cool to see the cliff we had hiked just a few hours earlier. To be honest, I felt a sense of accomplishment after looking at it and thinking, “pretty tall, that”. The main joy for me is to just take photos here; we were lucky that the conditions led to some really nice lighting. 

While close to the beach, we also spent a few minutes looking at the main church in Tjørnuvík. It looks quite similar to many other churches on the Faroe Islands, but it was still pretty, nonetheless. 

Checking Out the Faroe Islands’ Tallest Waterfall on the Way Back

On the way back from Tjørnuvík to Tórshavn, we made a couple of stops. One of those was because the sheep decided they weren’t letting us pass. They did this as we were approaching the village, too; having traveled extensively across the Faroe Islands, I definitely think that the sheep in and close to Tjørnuvík are some of the most curious. 

Beyond that, though, we also had a quick stop at Fossá. This is the highest waterfall on the archipelago and just a few minutes from Tjørnuvík by car. The waterfall drops multiple times, and it’s free to visit. There’s a small parking lot right next to it. 

While the power lines can obstruct the view, you can crop these out of your pictures or move so they’re out of the way. 

Useful to Know When Visiting Tjørnuvík

I absolutely recommend visiting Tjørnuvík, even if you’re only on a short trip to the Faroe Islands. However, I do have a couple of useful tips to keep in mind so you’re better prepared. 

Summer Traffic

We visited Tjørnuvík in the off-season, and as a result, the road was pretty quiet. We passed a few other cars, but it was by no means unmanageable. 

However, I have heard that it’s much busier during the summer. During this time, the tourism board recommends not bringing campervans or other large vehicles. I would also suggest driving here during off-peak times so you don’t have to deal with much chaos. 

Winter Daylight

While the sun *technically* rises in Tjørnuvík during the winter, it doesn’t go above the mountains surrounding the village. So, you should keep this in mind if you’re visiting at this time of year. To be honest, I’m not sure I would feel comfortable driving on that road into the village in such conditions. 

If I had to pick one time of year to visit, I’d say April is the best; it’s not as busy, but the weather and daylight hours are manageable. 

Final Thoughts

Tjørnuvík is a must-visit, regardless of how long you’re in the Faroe Islands for. It’s one of my favorite villages on the archipelago, with a welcoming atmosphere and beautiful scenery. The beach is also beautiful, and you’ll find plenty of photo opportunities. Even though it got stormy on our second trip, that added to the experience rather than detracting from it. 

The village is easy to reach from Tórshavn, and despite being small, you’ll find plenty of fun things to do here. Whether you visit as part of a tour or on your own, make this part of your trip. 

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