Hiking Eiðiskollur: Getting Caught in a Storm & Discovering Abandoned Bunkers

After being invited to the Faroe Islands by Guide to Faroe Islands, I was recommended to do the Eiðiskollur hike. I had seen the town of Eiði, famous for its football pitches, from afar on my previous visit to the archipelago—but this seemed like a great opportunity to do a simple hike and get some great pictures in the process. 

We had only been in the Faroe Islands for a few days, and since this was my girlfriend’s first visit, it was a great opportunity for us to familiarize ourselves. The day was more eventful than I expected, but in the midst of all that, we got to see abandoned bunkers and great views—while also experiencing a Faroese weather masterclass. 

Keep reading to discover our hike on Eiðiskollur, with information about the trail itself so you can enjoy it while you’re in the Faroes. I’ll also show you how to reach the village from Tórshavn; all of this will be accompanied by beautiful and original imagery. 

Arriving in Eiði

We set off quite early from Tórshavn as we had plans to explore a lot of Eysturoy, including Gjógv. Plus, we wanted to go to Tjørnuvík if we had time, so it made sense to get moving early on. After a breakfast buffet at our hotel, we headed to Eiði in rainy weather. 

By the time we reached Eiði, though, the skies had cleared. At this point, this was my second time anywhere near the village, and I had so far seen a grand total of zero rain clouds. That would change later, but for now… all good. (I love rain, but I also want to actually see things when I’m hiking and preferably not get spun about by some angry Norse God.)

As you head into Eiði, you’ll get a great view of the village and its surrounding mountains. I loved how the road weaved through the homes and how harmoniously everything fitted into the landscape. Naturally, I stopped to take a photo before running back to the car because the wind clearly wasn’t happy I had arrived. 

Starting the Trail: Don’t Make Our Mistake

Right, so we originally thought the trail started next to the old football pitch, which has now become a campsite. Eager to start, we parked our car nearby. And then, I realized that I had gotten us in the completely wrong direction. So, after being side-eyed by some sheep, we got back in the car and drove into Eiði. 

After parking our car in the village, we started walking toward what we thought was the trail. I’d love to tell you that I knew where we went, but I’ll just be totally honest with you: We got completely lost. Again. 

We could see part of the trailhead, and as such, we walked in that direction, hoping we’d find it at some point. In the process, the sheep were interested in observing our orienteering skills. For useful reference, this guide has the trail’s actual starting point with a map. 

How to Know You’re on the Right Path

I have to say that some Faroese hiking trails feel a little bit like “Oh, you’re looking for the trail? That’s crazy, good luck though 🙂”. Well, they can be in the beginning, at least. However, it’s quite easy to see if you’re on the trail or not. 

Firstly, you should be able to see where people have previously walked on the trail. This might be more challenging in lesser-explored areas, but it’s a sign you’re in the right place. Moreover, you should see a sign at the start of the trail stating the route and its difficulty. We didn’t find this for Eiðiskollur, but I know that it does exist, so this was our error. 

The other simple way to tell that you’re on the right route is that you will notice cairns. These piles of rocks will show you the path to the top and back down again. If you can’t find any, you might not be in the right spot. 

Getting Caught in a Storm

After we found the actual trail, the first 15 minutes or so were relatively uneventful. The hike itself was simple to this point, and the sky was still blue. 

Clearly, I forgot we were on the Faroe Islands. The saying “if you don’t like the weather, wait 5 minutes” also applies the other way around. One minute, you’re out here with sun and no clouds in the sky; the next, you feel like Thor has decided to pick a fight with you for no clear reason. 

As dark clouds rolled ominously over the nearby mountains, I knew we were probably going to get mogged in about 0.5 seconds. And that is exactly what happened. If you’ve never been in a sideways hailstorm, I’ll just say it’s something you probably don’t want to experience. The wind was also brutal, and we decided to sit there and wait it out. 

The good news is that we at least had some food. So yeah, good lunch break I guess. What’s also great about Faroese weather being erratic at best is you only have to wait a few minutes before it changes again, which is exactly what happened. 

At that point, you know you have a small window before you probably get caught in rain and wind. So, we kept moving as soon as the worst had passed. 

What Were the Trail’s Conditions Like?

The trail itself was quite muddy in some areas; we visited in April. Parts also crossed puddles, and for this reason, I recommend bringing some good hiking boots. General running shoes are NOT appropriate for this hike, in my opinion—unless you like having wet socks. 

I also wore a pair of wooly socks as a baselayer, which was good for keeping my feet warm in case anything did get through my boots. 

As we got to the final part of the trail, it got quite steep. However, you’ll probably be fine doing it if you have reasonable fitness levels. I put my camera away at this point so I could focus on the trail without slipping, which happened when I visited the Swedish High Coast the year before 🙂. 

Like other mountains on the Faroe Islands, Eiðiskollur has very steep edges when you get to the top. It’s a direct 352-meter drop down, so you are cooked if you fall. Stay away from the edges; you’ll see signs in some places warning you where you shouldn’t walk any further, but proceed with caution in all areas, regardless of whether you see them. 

We Didn’t See the Sea Stacks in the End…

The main reason we came here was to get a view of the iconic Risin & Kellingin sea stacks from above, but this didn’t materialize for us. I didn’t feel comfortable walking closer to the edges, so I gave up on that mission. I don’t recommend that you walk any closer than you’re comfortable with, either, and you definitely should not bypass the warning signs.  

Even without seeing the sea stacks, the views were great anyway. We could see lots of fulmars nesting on the cliffside, and you will find plenty flying around as well. Lots of people mistake these for gulls, but they’re actually petrels. 

From the top of Eiðiskollur, you’ll get great views toward Streymoy as well. We saw glimpses of Tjørnuvík as we moved up the trail. 

… But We Did Find WWII Bunkers

My tour guide on my first trip to the Faroe Islands told me about the relationship between Britain and the Faroe Islands. As someone who grew up in the UK, I found this fascinating. I also love how you can find Cadbury’s Fingers in a lot of Faroese grocery stores. 

During the Second World War, Britain strategically occupied the Faroe Islands as Denmark and Norway had been occupied by Nazi Germany. The Faroe Islands are part of the Kingdom of Denmark, and considering how close they are geographically to the UK, this made sense. The occupation was known as the Friendly Occupation / Occupation Valentine, and Brits are still viewed positively in the Faroe Islands today. 

When we reached the top of Eiðiskollur, we found signs of times gone by. Some abandoned bunkers from World War II were still standing here, and we spent a few minutes exploring these. It briefly started raining again, and we used these to shelter ourselves until it had passed. 

Come Here For a Great View of Eiði, Too

Besides fantastic views of the surrounding mountains and cliffs, the trail was an ideal opportunity to see Eiði from above. This village is one of the most scenic in the Faroe Islands, and the nearby mountains are beautiful in particular. 

We got a great view of the village and its harbor from close to the top, in addition to more cool views as we got closer to street level. A Faroese football/soccer game was going on at the same time, too, so we got a cool view of that and the stadium. It very much goes in the “stadiums with scenic backdrops” category. 

Mission Gjógv: Failed (For One Day, Anyway)

We spent a bit of time exploring Eiði after finishing the hike before aiming to continue onward to Gjógv. But after putting the directions in Google Maps, we were met with a sign warning us that the road wasn’t de-iced during the winter. 

We both thought it initially said that the road was closed, since the sign was in Faroese. While we later learned we could have passed it, I personally wouldn’t have felt comfortable doing so unless a local was driving us. 

Instead, we decided to visit Gjógv another day. I haven’t covered that yet, but you will know when that article is up 🙂. We headed back to Streymoy instead and spent the afternoon in Tjørnuvík, which was a nice backup plan. 

How to Reach Eiði From Tórshavn

Eiði is just under 50 minutes from Tórshavn by car. You’ll drive via Oyrarbakki, meaning that you won’t pass through the Eysturoy Tunnel. As a result, you won’t pay the fee. The drive is straightforward and scenic; the approach into Eiði is much easier than other villages like Elduvík and Gjógv. 

The hike itself is free. While it’s doable on your own, you can also book a guided tour. If you want to see the sea stacks, I’d recommend booking the tour instead of doing it yourself.

Would I Recommend Hiking Eiðiskollur?

We did a couple of other hikes on the Faroe Islands that I’d rank above Eiðiskollur, but it was great nonetheless. The views are great, and it wasn’t too strenuous. The weather was volatile, but… I mean… It’s the Faroe Islands, and we visited in April. 

The trailhead can be a bit challenging to find, but it’s still a somewhat simple hike. I recommend doing it as a warmup on one of your first days in the Faroe Islands. 

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