Why I Do (and Don’t) Recommend Visiting Helsinki in December

Since my girlfriend is Finnish, I’ve been to Helsinki multiple times. Even before we met, I had already been to the city more than once. Now, however, I visit at least a few times per year. 

While I’ve visited in multiple seasons, December happens to be the month in which I’ve been to Helsinki the most. This is largely because we tend to spend Christmas in Finland, and we also use the city as a launchpad when we want to travel further afield. For example, I like to take December off and visit further-away countries like Japan. 

Even then, I tend to spend at least a few days in Helsinki either side of my trips elsewhere. The Finnish capital isn’t usually what people expect it to be, and if you aren’t prepared, you may find that your experience is more disappointing than you’d like. For that reason, I’ve decided to put together this detailed guide. 

I actually had the idea for this article a few years before writing it, but I wanted to get more information (and better photos). I will continuously update this post as I keep visiting Helsinki more at this time of the year, and I’ve added all my top tips for being in the city during this month. 

Helsinki in December Isn’t Necessarily What You Think It Is

The first time I visited Helsinki during December was in 2019, when I was living in Stockholm. To be totally honest, my reasoning was that I wanted to see the city covered in snow. Let’s just say… I did not get my wish. 

I have occasionally had some trips where things met my expectations. But if you’re looking for guaranteed snow—and that’s the only reason you’re visiting Helsinki in December—I’d recommend reconsidering and choosing somewhere else. Oh, and when I say the wind is bitingly cold? I’m not joking. 

If I Have One Tip Above Everything Else: Be Careful of the Ice.

While it might not snow, ice on the sidewalks is very common in Helsinki during this month of the year. The biggest issue is that snow and rain will fall a lot during the day, when the temperature isn’t cold enough for it to stay around. Then, at night, it’ll often be below freezing. The result when you wake up is something that resembles unwanted skiing. 

The municipality does a good job of clearing snow and ice where it can, along with laying salt on the ground before and putting rocks and gravel for easier stability. But sometimes, ice is unavoidable. It can be thick or thin, but it can be very dangerous. 

I’ve almost slipped multiple times, and it’s easy to do so by accident. Wear decent shoes and walk carefully. Where possible, I also suggest walking on the rocks and stones laid down by the city.

… and the Icicles From the Roofs

Depending on the weather, you may also see icicles forming on the roofs in Helsinki. These can, unsurprisingly, be dangerous and cause injuries if they fall to street level. I thankfully haven’t seen anyone be injured, and I hope it stays that way, but I have seen icicles fall from the roofs of buildings multiple times. 

You’ll sometimes see areas cordoned off to prevent you from walking too close, and you should adhere to these warning signs where they appear. Otherwise, trying to avoid walking too close to buildings is generally a good idea. 

That Said, Helsinki Can Also be Nice to Visit in December

If you only read the first part of my guide, you’d be forgiven for thinking that Helsinki in December is a horror show that should be avoided at all costs. But while I don’t think the city is for everyone at this time of the year, it is worth visiting for others. 

First and foremost, Helsinki is a city that people live in throughout the year. I also think that it’s worth visiting whenever you can, even if that happens to be during the winter. Some things are even better in December, in my opinion; for example, I love going to the sauna and then going outside into the cold, before repeating the process. 

Finland in general is a nice place to be in December, and since this is *the* home of Santa Claus, it makes total sense. Helsinki has a lovely Christmas Market, which is one of my favorites in Europe. This alone is, in my opinion, worth making the trip to the Finnish capital at this time of the year. 

December in Helsinki is generally quite peaceful, too, and *if* it’s sunny, the city is beautiful. The lighting is perfect for photography, in my opinion; the sun is low all day, so it feels like one extended golden hour. If you’re really lucky, you may see parts of the harbor also frozen over. Again, while I don’t think you should make these the basis of your trip, it is nice if you get them as a bonus. 

Are There Any Events I Should Know About?

The main event in December is Finland’s Independence Day, which takes place on 6 December each year. Compared to Norway’s National Day, it’s quite low-key. However, you’ll see the Finnish flag everywhere throughout the city. 

Finland’s Independence Day is a public holiday throughout the country, meaning that many places will be closed. This is one of the main things that trips tourists up when they visit Helsinki in December, so I recommend keeping it in mind. 

I’ve also been to Helsinki for New Year’s Eve, and I actually quite like it. The reason being that it’s pretty low-key. That might not be to your preference, but if it is, then you’re in luck. While there were fireworks when we were in Helsinki around this time, there was nowhere near as much noise. For example, I live in Copenhagen, where people go wild with fireworks. Personally, I cannot stand it; it’s basically the only day of the year where I’d rather be anywhere else. So, Helsinki is a nice escape. 

My Top Activity Recommendations for a December Trip to Helsinki

I have written a detailed guide on my favorite things to do in Helsinki year-round, which you should also definitely check out. But for December-specific activity recommendations, I’ve added my top ones below. 

Visit the Christmas Market at Senate Square

I briefly mentioned Helsinki’s main Christmas market earlier in this article, which is at Senate Square. This is the main square where you’ll find the city’s famous white cathedral, and in December, it becomes very festive. 

The Christmas market in Helsinki is relatively small compared to some others you’ll find in Europe, but it’s pretty cozy. You can try numerous Finnish foods here, including Karelian pies. These rice pastries are my favorite Finnish dish, and they’re the one thing I look forward to more than anything else whenever I visit. Well, maybe apart from Finnair’s blueberry juice on the way. 

While at the Christmas market, I recommend trying the Christmas porridge. You will need to wait in a queue, but in my opinion, it’s worth the wait. You’ll find some space to eat it, but this can be quite crowded. 

While You’re at It, Take a Day Trip to Tallinn’s Christmas Markets, Too

Tallinn is just over two hours from Helsinki, and it’s a super easy day trip. I’ve visited the Estonian capital in December (and at other times of the year) multiple times, and while more touristy than Finland’s largest city, it’s well worth going to. 

In December, the Christmas market in Tallinn takes all the headlines. It’s located in Raekoja Plats, which is the city’s main square. Besides being in beautiful surroundings, you’ll find multiple stands with food, drink, and souvenirs. I had some glögi (which you may know as mulled wine or glögg), and it was pretty good. 

Otherwise, I recommend spending the day exploring Tallinn’s Old Town. If you have some time, I also really enjoyed the Kalamaja district. I actually wrote a full guide on my favorite things to do in Tallinn if you want some more inspiration for your trip. 

Do Hot / Cold Exposure at Helsinki’s Saunas and Swimming Spaces

I never really cared about saunas before meeting my Finnish girlfriend, but I can confirm that I am now very much part of the bandwagon. I like to do it by mixing between hot and cold, but in a healthier way than whoever Katy Perry is talking about in her song. 

Another option in Helsinki that I really like is Allas Sea Pool. I went here when it was -10ºC, and let’s just say that my feet were *freezing* when walking between the saunas and pools. Well, when I say “walk”, I actually mean “jog as fast as possible to get back in the sauna”. 

I’d recommend bringing some swimming shoes to stop it from being so painful on your feet. At Allas Sea Pool, you’ll find both warm and cold pools. You will also find a number of saunas. It gets very busy, so I recommend buying tickets in advance on the website.

The sun in Helsinki doesn’t rise until after 09:00 in December, and it’s down again before 16:00. So, you don’t need to wake up too early or stay up too late to photograph the sunrise and sunset. This is quite the contrast from summer in the Finnish capital, where you’ll get over 18 hours of daylight. 

If you have a clear day, Helsinki has some seriously beautiful sunrises and sunsets. It’s one of my favorite places to photograph during golden hour, and if you’re into photography, I really recommend doing the same. 

While this is by no means guaranteed, it is a nice bonus if you do happen to be in town when the sun is out. 

RAMS Roasters Is My Favorite Place to Escape the Cold

The cold in Helsinki can sometimes be brutal, and even as someone who enjoys cold weather, it’s not always so fun to be outside. If you feel the need to warm up, my personal favorite place to do so is RAMS Roasters.

I recommend this bakery to everyone who visits Helsinki, and there’s a very good reason why. The coffee is great, if you ask me, and I also really like their baked goods. The space itself is small, but if you get a seat, it’s not the worst place in the world to hang out. 

You will find plenty of other cozy cafés in the Finnish capital, but this one is my personal favorite. The bakery is in the upscale Ullanlinna district. 

Some Boat Tours Run in December, Too

With so much water, exploring Helsinki from the sea is one of my favorite activities in the Finnish capital. I took one sightseeing tour that I recommend, which still runs in December (albeit at a reduced schedule). 

Are All the Main Attractions in Helsinki Open in December?

Some attractions will be on a reduced schedule in December, while other tours only run through the summer. However, as I mentioned earlier, Helsinki is a city that people live in—and find things to do—year-round. 

Many places will still be open in December, including museums and a number of shops. Moreover, you can still visit food markets, like the outdoor one at Kauppatori. I don’t think you’ll struggle to fill your itinerary if you visit at this time of the year, and I have not had any issues doing so. 

The main bars, cafés, and restaurants will also still be open during this time of the year. 

If I’m Visiting Other Parts of Finland, How Long Should I Spend in Helsinki at This Time of the Year?

You could easily visit Helsinki in its own right for a weekend, but if you’re going to other parts of the country, around two days is a good idea. 

Two days in Helsinki will give you the opportunity to see the main highlights and also visit a couple of nice restaurants if you’d prefer. I don’t think it’s enough to also take a day trip to Tallinn, but if you really want to combine two countries, then you could—though it’d be rushed. 

If you’re planning to visit Rovaniemi after, I suggest taking the Santa Claus Express—which is the train to the city. While it will be dark for much of the trip (especially as you get further north), it’s still a nice way to travel. You can check availability for trains (and buses) here. 

You Probably Won’t See the Northern Lights in Helsinki… Sorry About That

The Northern Lights are sometimes visible from Helsinki, but it’s very rare. First of all, there’s too much light pollution, most of the time. Secondly, your chances of seeing the Northern Lights are significantly higher if you go further north in Finland. 

To have the best chance of seeing the Northern Lights in Finland, you’ll need to go to Lapland. Awesome if you see them in Helsinki, but don’t bank on it. 

How Dark Actually Will it Be?

For most of December, Helsinki has less than six hours of daylight. On the shortest day of the year, the sun rises at 09:24 and sets again at 15:13. 

Throughout the month, the sun does not set later than 15:30. Only on the first two days of December does the sun even rise before 09:00. 

I say these as a best-case scenario, too; if it’s cloudy, I can say from experience that Helsinki feels even darker. 

Although the city does a good job of making things cozy nonetheless, you may find it difficult if you’re prone to seasonal affective disorder. I strongly recommend bringing Vitamin D with you, and also to be outside as much as possible when it’s daytime. 

My Recommended Essentials You Must Pack for a December Trip to Helsinki

To help you prepare for your December trip to Helsinki, here are some of my top recommendations to bring with you…

• Vitamin D (I’ve mentioned it throughout this article, but… it’s important)
• A warm jacket, and ideally one that’s waterproof
• Long johns / baselayers, ideally merino wool
• Gloves; if you’re a photographer, I recommend getting a pair of photography gloves and using some running gloves as a baselayer. 
• Scarf and beanie
• Warm sweater
• Shoes / boots with good grip
• If you have dry skin, bring or buy some good lotion. I am particularly prone to this 😵‍💫
• EU plug adapter

If you’re planning to do a bigger trip in Finland, you’ll probably need some checked luggage on your flight. So, you should factor this into the budget you allow for your travel to and from the country. 

I also recommend dressing in layers. Having a merino wool baselayer, a jumper, and a warm jacket is the absolute minimum, in my opinion. It’s also better to dress in layers in case you get too hot, which can happen when you’re sitting indoors, or you’re on public transport. 

Your Essential Guide to Visiting Helsinki in December

Helsinki in December both is and isn’t worth visiting, depending on your interests. I personally love the Christmas market, and I also enjoy the peace and quiet at this time of the year. I’ve also learned to tone down my expectations around the weather, which has been hugely beneficial. 

At the same time, if you’re visiting because you want a snow-covered winter wonderland, I don’t think this should be your top reason. It’s nice if it happens, but you shouldn’t expect it—especially if you’re here at the beginning of the month.

The Finnish capital has plenty of activities at this time of the year, though, which are worth your time. Now that you’ve read this guide, I hope you also have a better idea of what to expect. If you want to plan your trip further, I recommend next checking out my 3-day Helsinki itinerary. 

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